Too Charming for Words - by Laurie

The Cotswolds have always been on my wish list. The pictures of that area show the most charming cottages and villages--just what England is supposed to be. I love the idea of that idyllic England. I like fairy tales.

Bonney joined Dale and me for three days to see what the Cotswolds are all about. It was very brave of her as we'd never traveled together or even spent much time together. We took the train to Moreton-in-Marsh and then a taxi to Stow-on-the-Wold (yes, all the charming villages have charming names) where we had booked rooms in a bed-and-breakfast. At the B&B we had tea and biscuits (cookies) in our room and a full English breakfast in the morning. All was right with the world.

Our B&B in a town full of these honey-colored, old, and charming buildings.
 

The first day we went walking around town. That involved Bonney and me going into all the shops and Dale hanging around outside. It works for me. Card shops, chocolate shops, bookstores...and then tea. Every two or three hours we had to stop for tea or coffee or cakes or something yummy to keep up our energy. Shopping is hard work. Then we went back to our rooms to rest before dinner.

Tea wasn't always tea but it was always delicious.

Our first night's dinner at the Bell Inn was lovely (without getting too much ahead of my story let me just say that every meal we had was lovely). It's been three days so I can't remember what we ate but it was fabulous--that I can say with confidence--and I'm sure we had dessert too. This was the meal where I vowed to cut back to half pints on my daily cider. 

The next day--Tuesday--we luckily read about a weekly market in Moreton-in-Marsh that's been going on for hundreds of years. Bonney and I quickly voted for that. This time we went by bus, an adventure in itself. But we got there and had great fun going through the stalls. Dale had found a hall where a women's auxiliary (or something like that) was selling tea and cakes. This is where the locals went. It was like going back to a more innocent time. I loved it. Then a little more shopping and then lunch (turkey roll on a bap for us). I want to mention that all this shopping results in very little buying since we don't have any space in our bags, but it's satisfying nonetheless. 

Bonney in the stocks at Morton-in-Marsh. The market is in the background but you can't see it.
 

There are lots of walking paths through the Cotswolds, all the little towns are connected, so we were pleased when Dale discovered a footpath. We started off (without a map I must add), went through a park, past some sheep, and continued until we decided to turn around. We didn't get anywhere and had no idea where we were but it felt good and we were proud of ourselves for walking. Then back to Stow and dinner at the Queenshead Pub. And we shared a dessert this time--bread and butter pudding.

Goodby to Stow-on-the-Wold after breakfast.

I was determined to see at least one other village. We had planned to take a bus all around the day before but our busy schedule of shopping and eating took up the whole day so this was our last chance. We also had to keep an eye on the time so we could catch the train back to London and get back to Loughton in time for dinner with Jeff. So after the morning breakfast we took the bus to Bourton-on-the-Water, an absolutely adorable town even in this area of charming towns. A canal runs through it with a tiny little footbridge and ducks...you get the idea. This time we got a map and headed for Lower Slaughter (the name has nothing to do with carnage but refers to it being a slough or something like that--I'm too lazy to look it up right now). This was a great footpath, past charming homes and gardens, along hedgerows and canals, up and down a slippery path, across a newly plowed field, down a road, and along a public bridleway, until we got to Lower Slaughter. By that time it was getting late and we were tired so Bonney suggested we take a taxi back. And while we waited for the taxi at the ancient pub we had a drink (half a pint only) while Dale walked back to meet us in Bourton.

Footpath from Bourton-on-Water to Lower Slaughter.

Still following the footpath.

The pub in Lower Slaughter. It was very old with very low ceilings.

Then the bus to Moreton, train to Paddington, tube to Laughton, and back with lots of stories for Jeff. Then we went out for a great dinner at a fish restaurant. 

The best part of our Cotswolds trip has been visiting with my cousin Bonney and the rest of the family. We didn't know one another well before the visit so this has been an amazing opportunity to catch up on a lifetime. Dale kindly avoided rolling his eyes at our endless shopping, talking, and eating, and even joined in for the parts he enjoyed (mostly the eating). Our final dinner with Bonney and Jeff left me with a warm glowing feeling for our entire time in London. A day later, as I write this in Harwich, I still feel that glow and the pang of missing Bonney and Jeff and their very amazing daughters.

Jeff and Bonney. We'll miss the long talks over breakfast and dinner.