Copenhagen take two - by Dale

I still can't tell which direction to locate things now that I'm in Copenhagen for the second time. The first time my senses were overwhelmed and let me down whenever we set out to go somewhere. This time I had some general landmarks and knew the names of some places which helped. Beyond that I just had to assume that we would make corrections along the way and figure out where we needed to be eventually. As Jeff reminded us in London, you aren't lost, you just need to figure out where you are.

We weren't sure how long we would have in Copenhagen this time. We split the difference with our time on the west side of Denmark and that gave a little more time here. I'm glad and I still think with enough time I would sort things out better or at least cover more ground trying. Copenhagen is a very walkable city but I have never seen such a density and maze of streets and they all have very long and similar looking names. It also seems that street numbering varies on different sides of the same street. Vester means west, Norre means north, Oster means east (I think) and while there isn't any sort of grid you can at least determine which area of the city you don't know where you are in and that makes for tighter circles as you search.

It looks a lot easier on paper...

We had hoped to return to Tivoli to see the night lights. We could see it was all decorated for Halloween but unfortunately it would not re-open until the 11th when we would be long gone. We did finally figure out that the National Museum was nearby in spite of it not being shown on or maps or easily spotted with Google. Likewise, the small Larry vs. Harry bike shop we had walked past on our earlier visit. We were on a quest to get back this shop where Ellie's famous bike comes from. We hoped to surprise here with a t-shirt or small gift from there. We spent part of our first day back searching for it with Google's help and headed back stumped. Yesterday was our last chance to get to both of these locations as well as make it too the great Design Museum for some shopping and finally on to the tasty Ethiopian Resturant we found near Norrebro so that we could end our trip with a meal and visit with our new friend Carol. A long list but we were motivated.

There were cycles everywhere and some really stood out.

We made a clever decision to get a 24 hour city transport pass for all buses and metro trains. That made all the difference. First up we had to find Cafe Emma where we had a much needed breakfast and regrouped on our earlie visit. That was easy and gave us confidence too. We were able to walk to the National Museum and enjoyed the full three hours we cold spare as we studied the prehistoric exhibits spanning stone, bronze, and iron ages and much Viking emphasis. We squeezed in time for the separate and very creative and interactiveViking exhibit. We also found some of the heads and other items from our time with the Parthenon installation at the British Museum. This information is beginning to make sense now. 

The National Museum is well worth a visit or two.

Next we used a combination of buses and walking to get back to where we thought the bike shop would be. We were stumped again and applied every trick and street spelling variation we could think of without any luck. Our last effort was overheard by a passing cyclist who gave us another clue and we arrived there a few minutes later. The shop was locked so we took a few photos to document our efforts and success when someone rode up and turned out to be Harry who opened the shop to make our day complete. We talked bike transport and shared Elle's efforts which were very well received and we went off with great gifts too.

Well worn tracks to somewhere...

Our list was nearly complete and we were at Ma'de, the Ethiopian Resturant a short walk later waiting for Carol who is sometimes late. She arrived as we finished drinks and was game for her first Ethiopian food experience. We enjoyed a feast and visited into the evening. When it was time to go she insisted on treating which was so sweet and much appreciated. We quickly caught another bus and soon landed within blocks of our hotel, happy and amazed that we had navigated so well and accomplished all the things we had on our list. Our map was worn out but got us through this special day. 

Found it now if they were only open.

The rest of the evening was spent packing, resting, and thinking about how we had come to be here now. 

We can pack very well after over 6 weeks of practice.

Just Photos - by Laurie

Another busy few days as we try to fit in everything before our trip ends. Here are some photos (this silly blog program we're using is very picky about photos and plays tricks if I use big photos so you'll have to click these if you want to see them well).

In Harwich, England we learned that the Mayflower left from Harwich. "Plymouth was just where they got their last provisions," they said with a sniff.

Our last ferry voyage, Harwich to Esbjerg, Denmark. We skipped the buffet this time for complimentary wine in our room.

Charming thatched cottages on the island of Fanø. We never got to the nature area.

Also on Fanø--someone was knitting the bus stops, benches, and other public places.

Our hotel in Esberg had a replica from the Parthenon. We recognized it after seeing the original (?) at the British Museum. We're getting culture!

This old building is really sagging in the middle. Ribe, Denmark, is the oldest city in Scandinavia, dating from the 800s A.D.

Replica of a Viking boat in the Ribe Museum. 

Back to Copenagen and to the Danish National Museum to see the special Viking Exhibit and also this centaur's head. We saw his body at the British Museum. Putting the pieces together. 

Quest accomplished. We met Harry of Larry vs. Harry after hours of going in circles in Copenhagen. These awesome bikes are found everywhere in this city.

Our final dinner in Copenhagen at the same Ethiopean restaurant we had our first meal but this time with our new Copenhagen friend, Carol. Unfortunately, we were having such a fun visit we forgot to take any photos.

The Shortest Train Ride Ever! - by Dale

Today was a transition day. We were where we needed to be to catch an evening ferry and only had a few chores like laundry and travel food while we explored.  We started with a great traditional breakfast that was mostly grilled and extra tasty. There was another B&B guest who was from Portland so we had things to talk about. We all jumped on a bus soon after breakfast and found a street market very near the laundry service which would do the washing while we explored. Laurie explored the shopping and I checked out the surrounding area. We both enjoyed a gusty walk along the shoreline walkway out to an old lighthouse. 

Among other things several national bike routes pass through Harwich.

Harwich, the home port of the original Mayflower as we learned today, is a quaint collection of small communities that seem off the tourist trail. The people there were friendly and helpful. We liked the feel of it all and enjoyed exploring the area. We were also encouraged to come back in 2015 when the new Mayflower being built should be finished. 

The rain continued off and on and when we got out near the point Laurie came up with a fun idea to take the train back. There are two stations very close together and this would be just right to suit our needs.Thanks to our railpass we took what has to be the shortest trip I've ever taken by train. 

The blue dot was us with two very close train stations, our waiting laundry and rail passes!

Our laundry was clean and waiting allowing us to catch the next bus which took us back to where our bags were stored. After a little packing we were ready for the short walk to the Ferry/Train station. We were soon relaxing in our cozy cabin waiting for our ship to sail back to Denmark where this amazing journey began nearly 6 weeks ago. We aren't finished yet and have some great plans to explore parts of western Denmark before we return to Copenhagen for a final fling before we fly home tired and very happy.

A feast with friendly locals to chat with added to a very nice day in Harwich
 

Too Charming for Words - by Laurie

The Cotswolds have always been on my wish list. The pictures of that area show the most charming cottages and villages--just what England is supposed to be. I love the idea of that idyllic England. I like fairy tales.

Bonney joined Dale and me for three days to see what the Cotswolds are all about. It was very brave of her as we'd never traveled together or even spent much time together. We took the train to Moreton-in-Marsh and then a taxi to Stow-on-the-Wold (yes, all the charming villages have charming names) where we had booked rooms in a bed-and-breakfast. At the B&B we had tea and biscuits (cookies) in our room and a full English breakfast in the morning. All was right with the world.

Our B&B in a town full of these honey-colored, old, and charming buildings.
 

The first day we went walking around town. That involved Bonney and me going into all the shops and Dale hanging around outside. It works for me. Card shops, chocolate shops, bookstores...and then tea. Every two or three hours we had to stop for tea or coffee or cakes or something yummy to keep up our energy. Shopping is hard work. Then we went back to our rooms to rest before dinner.

Tea wasn't always tea but it was always delicious.

Our first night's dinner at the Bell Inn was lovely (without getting too much ahead of my story let me just say that every meal we had was lovely). It's been three days so I can't remember what we ate but it was fabulous--that I can say with confidence--and I'm sure we had dessert too. This was the meal where I vowed to cut back to half pints on my daily cider. 

The next day--Tuesday--we luckily read about a weekly market in Moreton-in-Marsh that's been going on for hundreds of years. Bonney and I quickly voted for that. This time we went by bus, an adventure in itself. But we got there and had great fun going through the stalls. Dale had found a hall where a women's auxiliary (or something like that) was selling tea and cakes. This is where the locals went. It was like going back to a more innocent time. I loved it. Then a little more shopping and then lunch (turkey roll on a bap for us). I want to mention that all this shopping results in very little buying since we don't have any space in our bags, but it's satisfying nonetheless. 

Bonney in the stocks at Morton-in-Marsh. The market is in the background but you can't see it.
 

There are lots of walking paths through the Cotswolds, all the little towns are connected, so we were pleased when Dale discovered a footpath. We started off (without a map I must add), went through a park, past some sheep, and continued until we decided to turn around. We didn't get anywhere and had no idea where we were but it felt good and we were proud of ourselves for walking. Then back to Stow and dinner at the Queenshead Pub. And we shared a dessert this time--bread and butter pudding.

Goodby to Stow-on-the-Wold after breakfast.

I was determined to see at least one other village. We had planned to take a bus all around the day before but our busy schedule of shopping and eating took up the whole day so this was our last chance. We also had to keep an eye on the time so we could catch the train back to London and get back to Loughton in time for dinner with Jeff. So after the morning breakfast we took the bus to Bourton-on-the-Water, an absolutely adorable town even in this area of charming towns. A canal runs through it with a tiny little footbridge and ducks...you get the idea. This time we got a map and headed for Lower Slaughter (the name has nothing to do with carnage but refers to it being a slough or something like that--I'm too lazy to look it up right now). This was a great footpath, past charming homes and gardens, along hedgerows and canals, up and down a slippery path, across a newly plowed field, down a road, and along a public bridleway, until we got to Lower Slaughter. By that time it was getting late and we were tired so Bonney suggested we take a taxi back. And while we waited for the taxi at the ancient pub we had a drink (half a pint only) while Dale walked back to meet us in Bourton.

Footpath from Bourton-on-Water to Lower Slaughter.

Still following the footpath.

The pub in Lower Slaughter. It was very old with very low ceilings.

Then the bus to Moreton, train to Paddington, tube to Laughton, and back with lots of stories for Jeff. Then we went out for a great dinner at a fish restaurant. 

The best part of our Cotswolds trip has been visiting with my cousin Bonney and the rest of the family. We didn't know one another well before the visit so this has been an amazing opportunity to catch up on a lifetime. Dale kindly avoided rolling his eyes at our endless shopping, talking, and eating, and even joined in for the parts he enjoyed (mostly the eating). Our final dinner with Bonney and Jeff left me with a warm glowing feeling for our entire time in London. A day later, as I write this in Harwich, I still feel that glow and the pang of missing Bonney and Jeff and their very amazing daughters.

Jeff and Bonney. We'll miss the long talks over breakfast and dinner.

 

Leaving London - by Dale

Today we will see a few more must see sights and then catch another train. It's hard to believe that our time here and in Great Britain is now coming to end on this epic journey. Each experience has added to a very long list of exciting accomplishments. At the top of the list certainly has been the lovely time getting to know the Golds. My experience previously had been mostly from a few visits to the US by daughters Julia, Debbie with Lisa, and Amy. These previous visits were far in the past and mostly before we moved to Sacramento.

Laurie and Bonney looking closely at market wares in Morton-in-Marsh.
 

Now, I have had many meals, stories, and fun with Bonney and Jeff. They are two of the nicest people you could ever want to know. The warm way they opened their comfy home for what became an extended stay. We had expected to stay a few days here like we have done elsewhere since arrival and then move to another location and explore beyond the city. That would have been fine but instead we joined the Golds on local family activities and getting to know the area nearby much better. The result has been fabulous and leaves us with a warm but somewhat bittersweet departure. We will long remember the kindness they have showed us. We also have the new experience of Laurie and Bonney spending time together traveling and they had a fine time. 

There have been many new places to see here and new ways to find them...
 

We enjoyed a fine seafood dinner at a favorite local resturant to show our appreciation for all they have done. The walk to and from allowed us to see the quiet parts of Loughton where they have lived for many years and raised their wonderful family. Now we are having a light breakfast with Bonney sitting around the dining table. When the morning commute quiets down we will be back on the tube with our bags again. This time we head for a new train station to store luggage so we can get to the British Museum and another great treat that we can only skim on this visit. Afterwards, we board a train to Harwich where we will relax tonight and much of tomorrow before boarding our last ferry and sailing back to Denmark for yet more adventures before flying home in a few days later. Where has all the time gone? Luckily I have been trying to keep a daily journal which will remind me for a long time to come.

There are always down times working on transit schedules too.

 

Escape to the Cotswolds - by Dale

We slipped out of London with Bonney in the middle of the morning commute. Maybe it was more of a squeeze as everyone seems to pack into the Tube to make their way to work. People seem very much in their own space when in fact they have very little of that. I think the key is that system runs so well and it beats driving or other slower, less reliable ways to get to work. There seems to be unwritten rules that allow people to share tight space, give up much desired seats when someone looks to need one more and they know they were lucky to get one themselves and will be getting off soon anyway.

Bonney & Laurie selecting from the many options in the Cotswolds.

In our case we packed light with just day bags for two days of exploring the famed Cotswolds based at the "Cross Keys" B&B in Stow-on-Wold. I don't really know what either of those names mean but it was a another good choice made by Laurie with a central location. The only drawback has been the strong smell of smoke coming from somewhere below and probably the private quarters of the hosts. We were surprised by this given what we have found at many other B&Bs we've stayed at. It's more sad and annoying than a real problem for us anyway.

A very cozy room waited for us in Stow-in-Wold
 

Even out in this more remote rural area to the west there are trains running at least every hour from other areas and the buses here connect with other small communities on the hour. Another lesson that needs to be learned elsewhere. That said I was surprised to see so many cars filling the small town. We arrived by taxi rather than wait for a bus since we didn't know the schedule. There are also signs of development and renovation here as well as quite a few store fronts that are vacant and signed "To Let". This is not to be mistaken for the less frequent sign usually including an arrow for the "WC" or toilet we are often searching for as we travel.

Are they saying I'm an antique? Hard to argue anyway.

We relaxed when we arrived and then explored Stow on foot finding lots of old stone buildings,twisting small alleys, narrow sidewalks, cobbled ways and lots of places for tourists to spend a few coins or much more during brief stays. Laurie and Bonney are having fun checking out the wares and making a few small strategic purchases that meet their keen eyes or at least catch their fancy. For me, it's always more fun to people watch, figure out how to navigate around while I look for open spaces with a little history and culture mixed in. There is plenty of that here too. 

A very good place to take a walk it is too.

After another good traditional English breakfast today we headed out to find the police station/bus stop and get an all day pass on our way to Moreton-in-Marsh where a market day was happening. It was colder this morning with the feel of rain in the air. We also wanted to see if we could get in one of the famed walks on the many public trails through the region and make use of a bus to make our way back to Stow by evening. We enjoyed the large street market with a wide range of mostly cheap and often tacky wares. I found an old public building set up to serve tea/coffee with homemade goodies to fund local needs. This was well used and had a very homey feel that gave us what we needed before heading out on a public trail I spotted earlier. The trail crossed a tree lined park, a working sheep operation and then took off across a subtle but easy to follow trail system rolling along the edge of mostly agricultural fields. It looked like something off a calendar and would have certainly taken us to one or more other local communities. We opted to circle back and save some wear and tear on aleady sore knees. It was still a special experience for all of us. 

The start of a fall walk in the Cotswolds
 

We had seen a group of older people get off our bus earlier and head for one of these trails set up like they would be out there on a longer walk. I could see spending many days like that too as a way to connect with the historic rural nature of these special hills and lands in between. Hopefully the Cotswolds can remain like this in spite of the many tour buses that come this way and the move towards collecting more tourist dollars for comfortable stays, good meals, and many forms of arts and crafts that seem to have little to do with the original rural nature of this special area.

Trails like this seem to go on forever here.

It's easy to find a good end to a great day in the Cotswolds too.
 

 

A Rich Week in London - by Laurie

We saved the best for last...our earlier travels were always a prelude to visiting my cousin Bonney in London. Bonney and Jeff moved here about 40 years ago after meeting in a youth hostel and hitchhiking through Europe for a couple of years. Their three daughters--Julia, Debbie, and Amy--live in nearby London communities. We don't see the cousins often but there is a strong bond and much pleasure when we get together in person. It is very special to be with family and share fond memories.

We have been staying with Bonney and Jeff now for almost a week (!) with exciting activities planned every day. Although it will probably bore everyone else, I'm going to go into some detail about our time here because this is my record of this trip and I don't want to forget any of it.

The first day in London we went into town (from Loughton) to South Kensington where Dale and I spent a couple of happy hours at the Darwin Centre of the London Museum of Natural History to check it out before our important appointment the next day. We also walked a little in Kew Gardens, thinking it was Hyde Park (getting lost is something we do well). Then we met up with Amy for a long walk along the canal and a look at East London and the changes that had occurred there for the recent Olympic Games. We ended up with a lovely pub dinner next to the Thames.

Then our big day, an opportunity to go behind the scenes at the London Museum of Natural History with Mark Spencer, a curator and college friend of Debbie's. Dale and I had been looking forward to this tour ever since Debbie suggested it but it still surpassed any expectations we could have had.

We started off the day at the Victoria and Albert Museum, just because it was nearby and looked interesting. It was, but we couldn't concentrate because of our big treat coming up. In the afternoon Bonney, Jeff, and Debbie joined us at the Natural History Museum for the tour with Mark. Mark began by apologizing that he was busy so the tour would have to be short, then spent about 2 hours showing us back rooms and answering countless questions. The high point was the Sir Hans Sloane (1660-1773) herbarium collection (watch the video about this remarkable man), with specially made shelves for the entire collection of bound volumes of specimens plus scores of drawers with other plant materials and treasures. I kept hearing Dale gasp as Mark opened botanical books that were incredibly rare. One had pages signed by Linneaus. There were volumes with amazing plant illustrations as well as pressed botanical specimens. Many of these books have not yet been studied and will yield vital information about the world 400 years ago as well as how our present world has changed. Some of these volumes need extensive restoration--one extremely valuable volume was falling apart and needs a benefactor to donate £50,000 to preserve this precious treasure. Any philanthropists out there?

Mark pulled out priceless volumes (carefully) from Sir Hans Sloane's lifetime collection. Each of the shelves was specially made for the volume it held.

This volume had illustrations AND the corresponding specimens.

The rest of our London time should have been an anticlimax to this, but it's continued to be wonderfully rich and exciting. I spent the day after our museum tour with Bonney (Dale went into town to have his own adventures). It was a cake day for us. We walked into Loughton for coffee and cakes, then to the Olympic Park for tea and cakes, then wandered around. We discovered an interesting artist enclave with great graffiti and a pink sewer tank (for the Olympic Games) surrounded by a wall with subtle etchings. Then on to John Lewis for tea and cakes. We ended with a bus ride to Amy's house, then walked to a Moroccan restaurant where we met up with Debbie and Lisa, Jeff, and Dale. More great food! And belly dancing. Altogether full day in every sense.

Bonney with etched sewer walls created for the Olympics.

The next day Julia picked us up to visit Cambridge where she used to work. What an amazing city! I'd love to spend several weeks exploring it. As it was we got just a taste of the many colleges and beautiful streets. Lots of bicycles too. After Cambridge it was on to Saffron Walden, a charming town where we had lunch at Cross Keys, a very old pub. Julia was in the midst of a huge work project but still took the time to show us around--we loved the opportunity to spend the day with her.

Sunday is brunch time at the Gold residence. We slept in and then Amy, Debbie, and Lisa came over for beigels (like bagels but better) and eggs, bacon, and other goodies. After lunch Jeff took Dale and me to nearby Epping Forest, an amazing ancient forest. I'm getting tired of writing so you'll have to follow the link to learn more. It's well worth it.

Pollarded trees and Jeff and Dale at Epping Forest.

Now it's Monday. We got up early and Bonney, Dale, and I took the tube, then the train to the Cotswolds, an area that appears to be the quintessential England. I'll write about that next.